As we had chosen to set off early from Chicago, our breakfast consisted of half a packet of fig biscuits which were eaten by the time the bus started to leave the Chicago Metropolis. It was only a short trip of two hours to Milwaukee. We didn't know what to expect and so our expectations were not too dampened when we realised it was a very quiet and lifeless city. With no cultural sights to take in we headed for cover from the wind and cold to a shopping centre, which for a Saturday was like a ghost town. We indulged ourselves in a shared lunch of roast beef sub and endless cups of coffee. The coffee took its toll on my husband and he left me to pay a visit. Fifteen minutes later and we were both searching for each other in vain - my husband believing I had been abducted, kidnapped or escorted off the premises for speaking a foreign language?! Just when we had both panicked ourselves into a frenzy, I bounded toward my husband shouting his name and we collapsed together hugging and laughing, relieved that we had found each other.
We explored the remainder of the centre before boarding another bus at 5:15pm, to return to Chicago. From the Greyhound station, laughing hysterically, we sprinted through the streets trying to keep warm to the bus stop where we could catch our bus back to Lincoln Park.
Once the local bus came, we jumped on ready to head north. It was the night before Halloween and people were already celebrating..so many people dressed up heading to parties. Two partygoers boarded the bus in very odd outfits. The driver didn't batter an eyelid. Within seconds of them sitting down, a rather intoxicated man headed towards them. His opening comment, 'Can I ask you, what the hell are you supposed to be?!' Everyone on the bus started laughing, as the guy turned to us to ask if we knew. We didn't. The game of guessing had started. My husband thought the man was dressed as a condom and the woman was dressed as a tampon - wrong!! It was a guy opposite who guessed right - a cotton bud and ear, complete with ear wax and hair! The comments came thick and fast and the couple took it all, loving the attention. The drunk man was also centre stage with comments like 'who came up with that idea, not that it's wierd or anything', and 'if my queue tip (cotton bud) looked like her, I wouldn't have any wax!' We continued to wet ourselves (not literally)! Another passenger who joined later looked quizically at them for a long time before making his move - the familiar phrase 'can I ask...what are you?' The ear man replied with a deadpan expression, 'I can't hear you!' So he repeated the question. The same reply came back. He gave up asking the ear man and asked his partner, 'what is he?' She replied, 'he can't hear you'. The penny finally dropped and the man shuffled away from them looking even more confused. We on the otherhand, continued to laugh, our ribs now aching! Our stop came too soon, we didn't want to get off the bus!
It had been the best laugh of the trip so far. Such an unlikely place with unlikely characters (appearing quite intimidating initially) had ended up being very sociable, lively and entertaining!
The next morning, with melon in one hand, and cheese and sour cream pittas in the other, we followed directions to the library. It was closed - of course, it was a Sunday and Halloween. We headed to the University to use their facilities but not being members we were turned away, so headed to a local internet cafe. It was a race against time to download photographs onto a CD so that we could send it home, by post, so that it could be checked and saved so that our camera memory stick could be cleared of photographs. Out on the street, we argued about my husband not helping and me charging ahead racing against the clock due to the few cent we had spent on the internet. We walked towards Lincoln Park, still arguing - the area was beautiful - filled with yachts and speed boats in the harbour, green parkland and views of downtown including Sears Tower, the John Hancock Observatory and Navy Pier. We were enjoying the sun but not talking, this was probably the first real argument we had had, since setting off on our travels 28 days prior. It was a minor thing blown out of proportion by our tiredness and exasperation. Being two business people who live a good life in a lovely house surrounded by lovely people, it has been a difficult and trying time. Our adventures and the sights we have seen will remain with us forever, but so will the hardship - the constant worry about money, the want for things knowing we can't afford them, the dirt, and strangely the fear of the unknown. Wandering along the side of the lake, we were so cold, all the argument in us disappeared, and we just hugged together to keep warm and safe.
Our food that night should have been a treat, but with limited cooking utensils, it didn't come out as expected - at least we could eat slightly better than a guy who arrived in the lounge with a cereal box and some milk - a student from the local university staying at the hostel for cheap digs. Back in our room, after watching one too many scary Halloween films, and visiting the bathroom at break neck speed, we emptied and repacked our backpacks - it's no good reading a book about people planting drugs on each other whilst travelling, you become very suspicious!
Tomorrow, is a new day and a journey to Seattle.
Thursday, 15 October 2015
visited Chicago
The sights of Chicago were very familiar to me, having lived here during a Summer at University, selling aerial photographs door to door.
I was actually surprised how close the Greyhound station was to Sears Tower but the Customer Service lady who told us the hostel was close to the station was surely lying - by the time we reached there our backs and feet were killing. The hostel come college was clean, spacious, if a little studenty. Our room was ready, but not having had the chance to check the price with the Niagra hostel we nearly keeled over on having to pay US$90! So a bit less money in the bank, a couple of mild heart attacks, and we collapsed on the bed amidst leaflets of the area and promptly fell asleep for a few hours absolutely exhausted.
Waking, we showered and made our way to the local Tourist Information centre to find some cheaper accommodation. Twenty minutes later a sprightly woman had booked us into another hostel a short bus ride away. Convinced we could still get a better deal, we trooped to the Greyhound again to discuss where to stay, what to do, and whether to stay or move onto Milwaukee. Reading this your probably wondering why we contemplate money so much, but being on such a limited budget and only on day 24 of a very long round the world trip, we needed to be careful. Eventually after another phone call to the same hostel and a negotiated reduction in price, we decided we'd stay in Chicago. By this stage, we'd spent hours walking and discussing, and both with headaches we headed back to the hostel to collapse, for me, with a mild migraine - cursing the light and the noise from the incessant hammering as people worked on the hostel.
Chicago at that stage, to me, wasn't the Chicago I'd come to love. We were staying in a student neighbourhood away from the tourist area, and although everything was easily within walking distance, we were amongst the locals, trying desperately not to look like tourists.
We walked down to Madison Avenue and saw the Art Gallery, the Wrigley Building, Millenium Park with the most amazing arena lit up and intriguing sculptures. This was the Chicago I knew and loved. It was late, but the streets were still a hive of activity. We had to stop ourselves from walking too far and reducing our feet to bare bones. The night had made the day forgettable, and to top it off we saw the most beautiful eclipse of the moon. We weren't sure if we were imagining it at first as neither of us had ever seen an eclipse quite like it. This was the highlight of the day, and really served to put the ups and downs into perspective. A good night sleep was due, as the city awaited our adventures the next day.
Our backpacks ready for the onward journey to the hostel in Lincoln Park, we headed eastbound for two blocks towards Michigan Avenue, then north to the magnificent mile where we picked up signs for our first destination Navy Pier. I recalled Navy Pier on a hot summer's day with families enjoying the activities and entertainment - this time, it wasn't quite like that - the weather was not sunny and everywhere looked a little grey. We did visit an interesting museum in the centre of the pier with a huge collection of stained glass depictions collected by the people of Chicago over the years. The conservatory filled with giant plants and mesmerising fountains was also worth a visit.
Onwards to the blustery magnificent mile, we visited Marshall Fields, the second largest Department store in the world; Saks on 5th Avenue, located on 8 floors and very expensive to two travellers; and Bloomingdales, a department store and shopping centre. This area of Chicago is stylish, bustling and happening! We promised ourselves, that like New York, we would return to Chicago one day adjorned with money and a desire to spend it!!
Our visit to the Cheesecake Factory finally stopped us in our tracks, a willy wonka style outlet with more goodies than you can shake a stick at.
Later, we hailed the number 22 bus to Lincoln Park, the driver interested in where we were going carrying our heavy loads, and wanting to chat to us about the nature of Halloween in Chicago's society. Our ride, seemingly a short one, took us to the trendy area of Lincoln Park, which reminded my husband of East Didsbury in Manchester, England. An area where student meets professional, a heady mix of restaurants, bars and shops. It looked promising! We said our goodbyes to the driver, then crossed the road to check directions to the hostel with the owner of an ice cream parlour, who immediately told us we were miles away from our intended destination. Thankfully, a minor misunderstanding - it was just around the corner from his shop!
Arlington House International hostel seemed quite nice on first inspection - an old Victorian style building typical of those in the neighbourhood. With our key in hand we headed into our private room, to be greeted by two single beds. Now you may be thinking, well that's fine, but a trip of so far 25 days, and plenty of bunk beds, we really wanted to find a private double room with a double bed. After all, we were newly married - I'm not sure I mentioned that earlier in my blog. Surely this travelling malarky would be a test to any marriage let alone a new one!
My husband returned to reception to ask for a change of room to be given two new sets of keys - but the receptionist had mis-read his calendar and the poor people we walked in on were surely not too happy!! Two more keys later, this time no guests were present, but the shocking state of the rooms made us cringe in disgust. Maybe we were asking for too much - a private room with a double bed and a floor you could walk across without feeling you were going to contract some deadly disease from the infestations in the carpet. Needless to say we settled on our original room - thank you Arlington House - you marriage wreckers!!!
It was only when we had to navigate around the long corridors to find the toilets did we realise the building reminded us of somewhere - the hotel in The Shining, the place where Jack Nicholson goes mad! It was as spooky as that - long dark corridors dimly lit and empty. No signs of life in the living quarters only freaky looking people (sorry to anyone we may have offended) in the communal areas. The bathroom was even worse - deftly silent, eerie, brightly lit, horror movie shower curtains, swing door cubicles with no locks and a giant mirror that you were convinced you were going to see a person behind you wielding an axe! We almost sprinted back to our room, relieved to have made it...and ready to...sleep tight!!!
The next morning, a fresh start, we realised we were in quite a vibrant and classy area. Everyone was busy - going to work, shopping or eating. Even the roadworks and the massive craters in the road were fascinating - later we found a car had driven down one of them - not so clever!
The temperature was tropical, after a night full of storms. It cast our minds back to Singapore and the heat that had hit us as we walked out of the air conditioned hotel into the street. We bought food and went back to the hostel to prepare a meal, but walking into a smoky environment of the lounge come dining room with filthy chairs, I couldn't bring myself to eat in there, so my husband ate in the kitchen and I stood out in the street, although by then all thoughts of eating were not that appealing.
Later that day, we spent a good couple of hours in TJ Maxx looking for shoes and trousers. I must have tried on at least 50 pairs until finally I worked out which shoe size I was, so that I could buy a pair of trainers, and my husband a pair of trousers. Pleased with our purchases which would see us through more weeks of our trip, we decided to explore more of the area. We wandered down each of the streets in all directions, and there were a lot, taking in all of the sights especially a pub with a pitcher and free nachos for US$6..but we were really good,,and walked on past!
Once we'd seen the sights, we rounded a corner and needing to eat and not fancying the idea of eating in the hostel, a sign for a double cheeseburger for US$1 from McDonalds, was the answer!
Back at the hostel, we ventured into the dining room but seeing more strange characters, we returned to the safety of our room - watching this way and that with eyes wide open - perhaps it's because it is Halloween that we are so spooked or maybe it's this hostel. Needless to say tomorrow we were set to journey from Chicago along the shore of Lake Michigan to Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
I was actually surprised how close the Greyhound station was to Sears Tower but the Customer Service lady who told us the hostel was close to the station was surely lying - by the time we reached there our backs and feet were killing. The hostel come college was clean, spacious, if a little studenty. Our room was ready, but not having had the chance to check the price with the Niagra hostel we nearly keeled over on having to pay US$90! So a bit less money in the bank, a couple of mild heart attacks, and we collapsed on the bed amidst leaflets of the area and promptly fell asleep for a few hours absolutely exhausted.
Waking, we showered and made our way to the local Tourist Information centre to find some cheaper accommodation. Twenty minutes later a sprightly woman had booked us into another hostel a short bus ride away. Convinced we could still get a better deal, we trooped to the Greyhound again to discuss where to stay, what to do, and whether to stay or move onto Milwaukee. Reading this your probably wondering why we contemplate money so much, but being on such a limited budget and only on day 24 of a very long round the world trip, we needed to be careful. Eventually after another phone call to the same hostel and a negotiated reduction in price, we decided we'd stay in Chicago. By this stage, we'd spent hours walking and discussing, and both with headaches we headed back to the hostel to collapse, for me, with a mild migraine - cursing the light and the noise from the incessant hammering as people worked on the hostel.
Chicago at that stage, to me, wasn't the Chicago I'd come to love. We were staying in a student neighbourhood away from the tourist area, and although everything was easily within walking distance, we were amongst the locals, trying desperately not to look like tourists.
We walked down to Madison Avenue and saw the Art Gallery, the Wrigley Building, Millenium Park with the most amazing arena lit up and intriguing sculptures. This was the Chicago I knew and loved. It was late, but the streets were still a hive of activity. We had to stop ourselves from walking too far and reducing our feet to bare bones. The night had made the day forgettable, and to top it off we saw the most beautiful eclipse of the moon. We weren't sure if we were imagining it at first as neither of us had ever seen an eclipse quite like it. This was the highlight of the day, and really served to put the ups and downs into perspective. A good night sleep was due, as the city awaited our adventures the next day.
Our backpacks ready for the onward journey to the hostel in Lincoln Park, we headed eastbound for two blocks towards Michigan Avenue, then north to the magnificent mile where we picked up signs for our first destination Navy Pier. I recalled Navy Pier on a hot summer's day with families enjoying the activities and entertainment - this time, it wasn't quite like that - the weather was not sunny and everywhere looked a little grey. We did visit an interesting museum in the centre of the pier with a huge collection of stained glass depictions collected by the people of Chicago over the years. The conservatory filled with giant plants and mesmerising fountains was also worth a visit.
Onwards to the blustery magnificent mile, we visited Marshall Fields, the second largest Department store in the world; Saks on 5th Avenue, located on 8 floors and very expensive to two travellers; and Bloomingdales, a department store and shopping centre. This area of Chicago is stylish, bustling and happening! We promised ourselves, that like New York, we would return to Chicago one day adjorned with money and a desire to spend it!!
Our visit to the Cheesecake Factory finally stopped us in our tracks, a willy wonka style outlet with more goodies than you can shake a stick at.
Later, we hailed the number 22 bus to Lincoln Park, the driver interested in where we were going carrying our heavy loads, and wanting to chat to us about the nature of Halloween in Chicago's society. Our ride, seemingly a short one, took us to the trendy area of Lincoln Park, which reminded my husband of East Didsbury in Manchester, England. An area where student meets professional, a heady mix of restaurants, bars and shops. It looked promising! We said our goodbyes to the driver, then crossed the road to check directions to the hostel with the owner of an ice cream parlour, who immediately told us we were miles away from our intended destination. Thankfully, a minor misunderstanding - it was just around the corner from his shop!
Arlington House International hostel seemed quite nice on first inspection - an old Victorian style building typical of those in the neighbourhood. With our key in hand we headed into our private room, to be greeted by two single beds. Now you may be thinking, well that's fine, but a trip of so far 25 days, and plenty of bunk beds, we really wanted to find a private double room with a double bed. After all, we were newly married - I'm not sure I mentioned that earlier in my blog. Surely this travelling malarky would be a test to any marriage let alone a new one!
My husband returned to reception to ask for a change of room to be given two new sets of keys - but the receptionist had mis-read his calendar and the poor people we walked in on were surely not too happy!! Two more keys later, this time no guests were present, but the shocking state of the rooms made us cringe in disgust. Maybe we were asking for too much - a private room with a double bed and a floor you could walk across without feeling you were going to contract some deadly disease from the infestations in the carpet. Needless to say we settled on our original room - thank you Arlington House - you marriage wreckers!!!
It was only when we had to navigate around the long corridors to find the toilets did we realise the building reminded us of somewhere - the hotel in The Shining, the place where Jack Nicholson goes mad! It was as spooky as that - long dark corridors dimly lit and empty. No signs of life in the living quarters only freaky looking people (sorry to anyone we may have offended) in the communal areas. The bathroom was even worse - deftly silent, eerie, brightly lit, horror movie shower curtains, swing door cubicles with no locks and a giant mirror that you were convinced you were going to see a person behind you wielding an axe! We almost sprinted back to our room, relieved to have made it...and ready to...sleep tight!!!
The next morning, a fresh start, we realised we were in quite a vibrant and classy area. Everyone was busy - going to work, shopping or eating. Even the roadworks and the massive craters in the road were fascinating - later we found a car had driven down one of them - not so clever!
The temperature was tropical, after a night full of storms. It cast our minds back to Singapore and the heat that had hit us as we walked out of the air conditioned hotel into the street. We bought food and went back to the hostel to prepare a meal, but walking into a smoky environment of the lounge come dining room with filthy chairs, I couldn't bring myself to eat in there, so my husband ate in the kitchen and I stood out in the street, although by then all thoughts of eating were not that appealing.
Later that day, we spent a good couple of hours in TJ Maxx looking for shoes and trousers. I must have tried on at least 50 pairs until finally I worked out which shoe size I was, so that I could buy a pair of trainers, and my husband a pair of trousers. Pleased with our purchases which would see us through more weeks of our trip, we decided to explore more of the area. We wandered down each of the streets in all directions, and there were a lot, taking in all of the sights especially a pub with a pitcher and free nachos for US$6..but we were really good,,and walked on past!
Once we'd seen the sights, we rounded a corner and needing to eat and not fancying the idea of eating in the hostel, a sign for a double cheeseburger for US$1 from McDonalds, was the answer!
Back at the hostel, we ventured into the dining room but seeing more strange characters, we returned to the safety of our room - watching this way and that with eyes wide open - perhaps it's because it is Halloween that we are so spooked or maybe it's this hostel. Needless to say tomorrow we were set to journey from Chicago along the shore of Lake Michigan to Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
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